Off the Market: A Case Study in Commercially Traded Antiquities, Object-Based Research, and Ethical Considerations for Small Collections

Abby Cottier
Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice

About this Item

Title
Off the Market: A Case Study in Commercially Traded Antiquities, Object-Based Research, and Ethical Considerations for Small Collections
Contributor Names
Cottier, Abby (Author)
Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice (Degree granting institution)
Elia, Ariele (Thesis advisor)
Trupin, Deborah (Thesis advisor)
Date
2026
Degree Information
M.A. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York 2026
Department: Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
Advisors: Ariele Elia; Deborah Trupin
Committee members: Hilary Davidson; Brooke Carlson
Abstract
Many objects enter museums through the commercial antiquities market, whether that is via museum purchase or by donation from a dealer or collector. Often, these come without secure, well-documented provenance. As many–though not all–of these unprovenanced antiquities on the market were likely looted from archaeological sites, caring for them poses certain ethical challenges for collections.This paper explores these challenges and the steps that collections can take to ethically deal with these artifacts, beginning with provenance research, technical and contextual research, and identification. Armed with research, collections can reach out to countries or communities of origin to pursue further action, including repatriation. The paper uses a case study of a group of Ancient Andean textiles in the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)'s Graduate Study Collection, shining a spotlight on the struggles of small collections that are often left out of repatriation and ethical stewardship conversations.
Subject
Museum studies
Hispanic Americans
Textile research
Archaeology
Andes
Museum exhibits
Repatriation
Keyword
Museum studies
Hispanic American studies
Textile research
Archaeology
Ancient Andean textiles
Archaeological textiles
Artifact provenance
Museum ethics
Repatriation
University study collection
Rights
In Copyright
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Identifier
FIT Repository ID: etd_001066
URN: ISBN:9798252432236
Related Materials
Also available from ProQuest
Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 87-12
Masters Abstracts International
Type
Text
Thesis
Language
English
Publisher
Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses

Citation

Cottier, A. (2026). Off the Market: A Case Study in Commercially Traded Antiquities, Object-Based Research, and Ethical Considerations for Small Collections [Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York]. FIT Institutional Repository. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/676684
Cottier, Abby. Off the Market: A Case Study in Commercially Traded Antiquities, Object-Based Research, and Ethical Considerations for Small Collections. 2026. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, Master's thesis. FIT Institutional Repository, https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/676684
Cottier, Abby. "Off the Market: A Case Study in Commercially Traded Antiquities, Object-Based Research, and Ethical Considerations for Small Collections." Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2026. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/676684