Substitutes, Sacrifice, and Symbolism: Conservation of a Fire-Damaged Acetate Naval Nurse's Jacket from the Second World War
Annalise Mary Gall
Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
About this Item
- Title
- Substitutes, Sacrifice, and Symbolism: Conservation of a Fire-Damaged Acetate Naval Nurse's Jacket from the Second World War
- Contributor Names
-
Gall, Annalise Mary (Author)
-
Garcia, Kaelyn (Thesis advisor)
-
Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice (Degree granting institution)
- Date
- 2025
- Degree Information
- M.A. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York 2025
- Department: Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
- Advisor: Kaelyn Garcia
- Committee Members: Hilary Davidson, Brooke Carlson
- Abstract
-
This qualifying paper discusses the conservation of a World War II era acetate naval nurse’s jacket (c. 1944) that was damaged in a storage fire at Sampson Military Museum (Romulus, New York) in July 2008. The jacket distorted and discolored from the heat and pollution, predominantly along the proper left sleeve which was most exposed. The qualities of acetate posed unique challenges regarding reversibility of both the damage and the treatment. The decision-making process is detailed in this paper, as well as curatorial and contextual considerations, including the symbolism of the uniform and the mobilization of the American textile industry for mid-century military production.
The treatment goal was to restore flexibility and improve discoloration, so the jacket could be displayed without distraction from its solemn history and the service of its wearer, Caroline Dunn. A range of treatment methods were explored due to the extent and uncommonness of the damage; few objects affected by fire are salvageable, and fewer have been the subject of publication. Ultimately, the jacket was brightened with a hydrogen peroxide bleaching treatment, and the distorted sleeve was relaxed dually with small tacking irons and a preservation pencil.
The success of this treatment provides a framework for treating additional Sampson uniform pieces in the future, which are essential to make available for display and study given the extensive loss of their collection in the fire. As a case study, it also contributes to thinking around disaster recovery and man-made materials in the textile conservation field more broadly. - Keyword
- Acetate fabric
- Fire damage
- Heat damage
- Naval uniform
- Textile conservation
- Textile restoration
- Rights
- In Copyright
- The copyright for this work is held by its author/creator(s). Usage of this material beyond what is permitted by copyright law must first be cleared with the rights-holder(s). This work has been made available online by the Fashion Institute of Technology Gladys Marcus Library strictly for research and educational purposes. If you are the copyright holder for this work and have any objections to this work being made available online, please notify us immediately at [email protected].
- Identifier
- FIT Repository ID: etd_001033
- ISBN: 9798280716063
- Publication Number: 32040696
- Submission ID: 10462
- Language
- English
- Publisher
- Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses
Citation
Gall, A. M. (2025). Substitutes, Sacrifice, and Symbolism: Conservation of a Fire-Damaged Acetate Naval Nurse's Jacket from the Second World War [Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York]. FIT Institutional Repository. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/634907
Gall, Annalise Mary. Substitutes, Sacrifice, and Symbolism: Conservation of a Fire-Damaged Acetate Naval Nurse's Jacket from the Second World War. 2025. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, Master's thesis. FIT Institutional Repository, https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/634907
Gall, Annalise Mary. "Substitutes, Sacrifice, and Symbolism: Conservation of a Fire-Damaged Acetate Naval Nurse's Jacket from the Second World War." Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2025. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/634907