FIT Institutional Repository

Title

“Haute Craft” by House of Khadi Rebranding Luxury Through Art

Contributor Names

Sahni, Saher (Author)

Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Exhibition and Experience Design (Degree granting institution)

Lyons, Christina (Thesis advisor)

Cowan, Brenda (Thesis advisor)

Date

2024

Degree Information

M.A. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York 2024

Department: Exhibition and Experience Design

Advisors: Christina Lyons; Brenda Cowan

Abstract

Luxury is a subjective experience, varying widely across cultures, professions, and personal values. What may be a luxury for one person might not hold the same allure for another, highlighting the fluid nature of luxury and the evolution of its meaning. Historically associated with exclusivity, craftsmanship, and elite status, luxury today intersects with values like sustainability, accessibility, and innovation, reshaping its image to reflect contemporary ideals.

At its core, luxury has often been synonymous with beauty, equating high design and aesthetics with exclusivity and appeal. This connection is rooted in a deep respect for meticulous craftsmanship and timeless design, exemplified in haute couture—the pinnacle of luxury fashion that celebrates artistry and rarity. However, luxury today is no longer limited to an elite few but has become more democratized, influenced by shifts in consumer expectations and a growing focus on values beyond material wealth.

This transformation from traditional luxury to "new luxury" is marked by a move from excess to meaning, from mere accumulation of objects to the value embedded in each piece. Today's luxury consumer values emotional resonance, unique stories, and quality craftsmanship over opulence for its own sake. For instance, brands like Yves Saint Laurent, historically iconic for their haute couture, have ventured into more accessible markets without sacrificing the brand's essence, blending exclusivity with inclusivity. This shift enables a broader audience to participate in the luxury experience, symbolically or partially, through intermediate luxuries—whether in high-end everyday essentials or collaborations across price points.

In this context, concepts like "quiet luxury" and "innocent luxury" gain traction, focusing on timeless, high-quality pieces that speak subtly of sophistication. This approach aligns with the new-age minimalism that is celebrated not for its showy extravagance but for its refined restraint. Here, luxury converges with sustainability, where the "luxury of quality" is intertwined with a "culture of care." This care model emphasizes not only the physical beauty of products but also the invisible values—ethical sourcing, handcrafted processes, and the preservation of traditions—that make each piece significant.

Luxury's segmentation, from uber-luxury for the ultra-wealthy to approachable options for the broader market, reflects the evolving needs and aspirations of consumers. Marketing strategies within the luxury industry oscillate between exclusivity and inclusivity, balancing the allure of fantasy with the accessibility of reality. High-end brands leverage media and storytelling to create a sense of aspirational hedonism, allowing consumers to partake in a crafted world of elegance and comfort that appeals to their need for social recognition and self-expression.

Historically, designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Coco Chanel epitomized the power of luxury as both an art form and a statement, breaking conventional norms to empower individuals through fashion. YSL's bold choice to open his first boutique in bohemian Saint-Germain, Paris, a center of cultural rebellion, speaks to the spirit of disruption and innovation in luxury fashion6. Similarly, haute couture shows from legends like John Galliano for Dior and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel have transformed fashion into art, where creations transcend practicality to become expressions of pure imagination, doubling as wearable art and fantasy.

The democratization of luxury has driven segmentation within the luxury market, with brands adapting to a younger, more ethically conscious audience by making high-quality goods more accessible. This shift has fostered the rise of "slow fashion," which has since evolved into the concept of "quiet luxury." Quiet luxury emphasizes quality, craftsmanship, and authenticity over ostentation, focusing on products that value materials and skilled craftsmanship rather than sheer consumerism. Central to this approach is a commitment to using raw, natural textiles produced locally and ethically, crafted by artisans who pass their skills down through generations within tight-knit communities. This search for authentic, sustainable materials led me to explore Khadi fabric. Khadi—handspun cotton, silk, or wool—is produced in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, with a strong historical and cultural presence in India. Emerging as a symbol of self-reliance and resistance during India's independence movement, Khadi embodies quiet luxury's ideals, marrying heritage and sustainability with a deep respect for the land and its people.

Ultimately, luxury today can be seen as the "magic" in a consumer-driven world, where social aspirations, aesthetic allure, and ethical responsibility come together. As the industry continues to evolve, luxury remains a powerful mirror of societal values, embodying not only the pursuit of beauty and pleasure but also a commitment to meaning, creativity, and care.

This paper explores contemporary definitions of luxury and considers ways to reshape them to foster greater inclusivity and transparency. The first section examines the core values and enduring qualities of traditional luxury, highlighting its deep-rooted respect for narrative, history, and craftsmanship. In the second section, I propose a design intervention that elevates luxury to an art form, making it more accessible and engaging for a broader audience.

From a young age, I was deeply fascinated by the concept of luxury. My grandmother possessed an impressive collection of Indian garments, including saris and high jewelry, some heirlooms passed down from her own grandmother. She maintained a special, exclusive space in her wardrobe for this collection, accessible only to me and my sister, whom she still adores. As a child, luxury was something tangible and within my reach, embodied in the detailed embroidery of mirrors and metals sewn into yards of luxurious silk, satin, and velvet fabrics. To me, this was the epitome of pure beauty, grace, and excellence.

Growing up in New Delhi, India—a place where history, craftsmanship, and art coexist within lavish and exclusive malls as well as on street corners and markets—shaped my appreciation for aesthetics and influenced my personal taste and career choices. However, my perception of luxury was challenged when I found myself in SoHo, Manhattan. Walking through its streets, I was captivated by a particular Dior window display themed around a garden. Unable to resist, I entered the store, dressed casually in a white spaghetti strap top, baggy ash-blue jeans, and Nike sneakers. My first encounter was with a well-built man dressed in black, who stood at the entrance and scrutinized me from head to toe. Despite my friendly smile, he remained indifferent and reluctantly opened half of the door, making it difficult for me to enter. Once inside, I felt conspicuously underdressed and judged. As a design student seeking inspiration, I found the space and staff to be somewhat unwelcoming and exclusive. This experience led me to question whether brands that position themselves as temples of luxury, refinement, and exclusivity are willing to open their doors to a broader, more inclusive audience. Can these brands truly welcome those who do not fit their traditional definitions of target consumers ?

In this thesis, I examine how luxury brands construct narratives and market them as fairytale dreams, highlighting how art contributes to these ideas, elevating products to evoke wonder and magic. The study is divided into two parts.

The first part focuses on developing an original thesis that explores the duality of inclusivity and exclusivity in luxury as audiences evolve. The second part presents an applied design project that integrates and applies this theoretical framework.

Subject

Design

Fashion

Textile research

Sustainability

Keyword

Art

Collaboration

India

Khadi textile

Luxury

Rights

In Copyright

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Identifier

FIT Repository ID: etd_001014

URN/ISBN: 9798302851833

Related Materials

Also available from ProQuest

Source: Masters Abstracts International, Volume: 86-07.

Type

Text

Thesis

Language

English

Publisher

Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses,