An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls
Kripa K. Kewalramani
Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
About this Item
- Title
- An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls
- Contributor Names
-
Kewalramani, Kripa K. (Author)
-
Trupin, Deborah (Thesis advisor)
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Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice (Degree granting institution)
- Date
- 2023
- Degree Information
- M.A. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2023
- Department: Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
- Advisors: Trupin, Deborah
- Committee members: Davidson, Hilary; Montegut, Denyse; Font, Lourdes
- Abstract
-
The Kashmiri shawl developed over three hundred years, with each culture bringing its own unique contribution to the evolution of the Kashmiri shawl. The variety of Kashmiri shawls is endless; this can be seen museum and private collections, on auction websites and published in books. The majority of Kashmiri shawls in museums and private collections today is of nineteenth-century manufacture. The invention of embroidered shawls, which originally started as a touch-up on designs of completed shawls, started in the mid-eighteenth century. In the nineteenth century, shawl production received a powerful external stimulus and took a change of course when European attention impacted local designs and manufacture. It was during this time that piecework resulted, and culminated in the shift from atelier weaving toward mass market.
This qualifying paper will focus on three shawls attributed to Kashmir, India, analyze the use of embroidery and piecing in their construction, and review a comprehensive treatment for one. The research and treatment of that shawl, done for FT644, Advanced Conservation II, in Spring 2022, provided the inspiration for this paper. The body of this paper is a comparison of the three shawls. All three are lined, composite and embroidered - yet, are all different. All three are hand-woven in the kani weave, a twill tapestry weave with interlocking wefts, from Kashmir, India. This paper analyzes the similarities and differences of all three and the publication on Kashmiri shawl conservation treatments. - Subject
- Textile research
- South Asia
- Fashion
- Textile fabrics
- Conservation and restoration
- Shawls
- Embroidery
- Piecework
- Keyword
- Conservation treatment
- Dorukha shawls
- Embroidery
- Kashmiri shawls
- Piece-work
- Textile conservation
- Rights
- In Copyright
- The copyright for this work is held by its author/creator(s). Usage of this material beyond what is permitted by copyright law must first be cleared with the rights-holder(s). This work has been made available online by the Fashion Institute of Technology Gladys Marcus Library strictly for research and educational purposes. If you are the copyright holder for this work and have any objections to this work being made available online, please notify us immediately at [email protected].
- This item must not be sold to any third party vendors.
- Identifier
- FIT Repository ID: etd_000937
- ISBN: 9798379899271
- pqdiss: 30493004
- Language
- English
- Publisher
- Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses
Citation
Kewalramani, K. K. (2023). An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls [Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York]. FIT Institutional Repository. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792
Kewalramani, Kripa K. An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls. 2023. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, Master's thesis. FIT Digital Repository, https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792
Kewalramani, Kripa K. "An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls." Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2023. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792