An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls

Kripa K. Kewalramani
Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice

About this Item

Title
An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls
Contributor Names
Kewalramani, Kripa K. (Author)
Trupin, Deborah (Thesis advisor)
Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice (Degree granting institution)
Date
2023
Degree Information
M.A. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2023
Department: Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice
Advisors: Trupin, Deborah
Committee members: Davidson, Hilary; Montegut, Denyse; Font, Lourdes
Abstract
The Kashmiri shawl developed over three hundred years, with each culture bringing its own unique contribution to the evolution of the Kashmiri shawl. The variety of Kashmiri shawls is endless; this can be seen museum and private collections, on auction websites and published in books. The majority of Kashmiri shawls in museums and private collections today is of nineteenth-century manufacture. The invention of embroidered shawls, which originally started as a touch-up on designs of completed shawls, started in the mid-eighteenth century. In the nineteenth century, shawl production received a powerful external stimulus and took a change of course when European attention impacted local designs and manufacture. It was during this time that piecework resulted, and culminated in the shift from atelier weaving toward mass market.

This qualifying paper will focus on three shawls attributed to Kashmir, India, analyze the use of embroidery and piecing in their construction, and review a comprehensive treatment for one. The research and treatment of that shawl, done for FT644, Advanced Conservation II, in Spring 2022, provided the inspiration for this paper. The body of this paper is a comparison of the three shawls. All three are lined, composite and embroidered - yet, are all different. All three are hand-woven in the kani weave, a twill tapestry weave with interlocking wefts, from Kashmir, India. This paper analyzes the similarities and differences of all three and the publication on Kashmiri shawl conservation treatments.
Keywords: Conservation Treatment; Dorukha Shawls; Embroidery; Kashmiri Shawls; Piece-work; Textile conservation
Subject
Textile research
South Asia
Fashion
Textile fabrics
Conservation and restoration
Shawls
Embroidery
Piecework
Rights
In Copyright
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Identifier
FIT Repository ID: etd_000937
ISBN: 9798379899271
pqdiss: 30493004
Related Materials
Also available from ProQuest
Type
Text
Thesis
Language
English
Publisher
Ann Arbor : ProQuest Dissertations & Theses

Citation

Kewalramani, K. K. (2023). An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls [Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York]. FIT Institutional Repository. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792
Kewalramani, Kripa K. An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls. 2023. Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, Master's thesis. FIT Digital Repository, https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792
Kewalramani, Kripa K. "An Exploration of Embroidered and Pieced Kashmiri Shawls." Master's thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, 2023. https://institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu/item/120792